How a Plumber Inspects Plumbing: TOILETS

by Kenny Hart October 1, 2009

Most home inspectors are able to call on knowledge they gained in a previous profession or trade, and their current clients benefit from their past experiences.

During my 35 years working as a plumber, I have installed hundreds of toilets (water closets) and replaced countless numbers of tank parts.

I’ve dropped lids, cracked tanks and once, while clearing a blockage, had my auger pop right through the side of a toilet bowl.

Long before 1.6-gallons-per-flush (GPF) toilets were introduced, I remember plumbers wondering if the newfangled 3.5 GPF toilets could possibly do as good a job as the 5-gallon models.

Now, I’d like to share with you what I learned about toilets while wearing my plumber’s cap. My experiences helped me and perhaps can help you become a better home inspector. In this article, I’ll cover basic toilet components and the simple, but common, repair mistakes that can cause a toilet to wash away your clients’ hard-earned money or even sicken or injure them.

Start at the top: Inspect the tank lid

Before removing the tank lid, I check to see if it is cracked or broken. A cracked lid can break when lifted, causing more serious damage, possible flooding and even injury. The joints of broken lids can fit tightly together like a jigsaw puzzle, making the breaks hard to recognize until the lid is lifted. The sharp edges can cut like a razor. I use caution removing any tank lid, and I never dismiss a crack as a cosmetic issue. For me, a cracked or broken lid falls under the heading of “safety concern,” and in my report, I note it should be replaced.

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Photo: A variety of older toilet tank lids. Photo courtesy of www.plumbingsupply.com

Newer tank lids can be ordered directly from the manufacturer, but older lids, especially ones for colored toilets, often have to be purchased through a specialty dealer, who collects and stores discarded toilets. Lids for old, unique toilets can be expensive. Even a lid from a well-known brand manufactured in the last 30 years can cost $100 to $300, but that’s still less than buying a new toilet and hiring a plumber to install it.

Move inside: Major tank components

Although home inspectors are not required to identify and explain the functions of the major components in a toilet’s tank, by doing so you might earn points with your clients and plumbers. In general, the working parts in a tank fall into three categories: 1) trip levers, 2) flush valves and, 3) fill valves.

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Photo courtesy of Fluidmaster

1) Trip levers
Trip levers, also known as the tank levers or flush handles, are the toilet’s main operating control­­ — the device that gets things moving. Most are mounted on the left front or left side of the tank. Some toilet models offer a right-side option, and high-end toilets may have trip levers mounted through the top of the tank lid and refer to them as the flush knob or actuator.

All trip levers get loose; plastic levers are prone to breaking and poor quality metal ones corrode. It is generally a D-I-Y job to replace one, but most have a left-hand thread, which can confuse and frustrate D-I-Yers. A trip lever is installed with the lid off, but should be checked with the lid on to ensure it does not strike the underside of the lid when the toilet is flushed. It should not rub against the inside of the tank, nor should the handle rub against the outside. Toilets can run for days if the lever hangs up, preventing the tank from refilling.

Two-part trip levers are common, with the visible portion matching other fittings in the room and the internal portion standard for many toilet styles. Set screws connect the two parts just inside the tank. The screws loosen or the tapping for the set screw weakens and causes the handle to break. I look for cracked and loose connections, especially with plastic parts.

Mansfield toilets are among my favorites because of the link between the trip lever and their cartridge-type flush valve. This link actually allows the flusher to lift the handle mid-flush to stop the water from leaving the tank. You can stop an overflowing toilet without removing the lid and shoving the flush valve into the off position. When I’m inspecting or installing this toilet, I demonstrate this function for my clients or customers.

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Photo: A Mansfield handle link. Photo by Kenny Hart.

However, it is common for non-professionals to install the wrong trip lever when repairing this toilet. The average trip lever is too short to do the job. It may lift the flush cartridge when tripped, but if the cartridge rotates away from the lever, the link is broken, making the flush valve inoperable for the next flush. Ultimately, fishing line, bread bag ties or paper clips are used to keep the flush valve connected to the trip lever. The result is almost always a twisted mess that ends up wasting water. I label this defect an “Improvised Repair,” and note it even when it appears to be working.

2) Flush Valves
Flappers, tilt valves, cylinder flush valves and tank ball actuating units are just a few of the names given to flush valves. Whatever it’s called, its purpose is to open and release the water to the bowl once the trip lever is moved. Once the flush is complete, it must shut to allow the tank to refill. The most common complaint with these devices takes place when they begin to wear out. They leak water to the bowl and cause the fill valve to cycle on.

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Photo: L to r: Cylinder flush valve, flapper valve and tank ball valve. Photo by Kenny Hart.

KHart-5.jpg Though well beyond the scope of a home inspection, dye-testing tank parts is a good way to determine if the flush valve is leaking. By putting a dye tablet in the tank and allowing it to sit for a half hour or so, you can see if the flush valve is allowing water to flow from the tank to the bowl and down the drain. Sometimes, dye tablets are given out at the hardware store for testing purposes. However, food coloring and even Kool-Aid will do the job. Photo: Dye pack. Photo by Kenny Hart.

The bowl water will begin to change to the color of the water in the tank if the flapper is worn out or defective. The dye test also can detect when the overflow pipe is leaking below the water line or if the flush valve mechanism is not installed tightly through the tank. Any of these defects will cause the toilet to cycle on and result in a high water bill.

Many flush valve components are connected to the overflow pipe. Flappers and tank ball guides are often attached there. Occasionally, the overflow is built into the tank and cast into the china itself. As well as serving as the main anchor for some flush valve components, the overflow pipe’s primary function is to prevent water from escaping around the handle or allowing the fill valve to become submerged. A properly sized overflow pipe will be cut below the trip lever opening in the tank to prevent a fill valve malfunction from flooding the bathroom. It will be long enough to allow adequate water to be stored in the tank for a proper flush, yet short enough to keep it an inch or so below the critical level of the fill valve.

3) Fill Valves
The fill valve or ballcock fills the tank after each flush. Some ensure a good trap seal by sending a small stream of water down the overflow pipe to the bowl during each fill. For your basic toilet, a good fill valve is easy to install and easy to adjust. It should quietly fill the tank and shut off with little effort.

In the past, there was one primary style — a float valve. A float ball threaded onto a rod that extended from the valve itself and stretched across the tank above the water. The float ball raised by the water entering the tank would apply pressure to the valve. The cut off point was adjusted above the fill valve by turning a screw pressing against the valve cap or by bending the rod holding the float ball at the opposite end. Tightening the screw or bending the rod toward the water causes the valve to cut off sooner. To raise the water level, you simply reverse these actions. Sometimes, there is a second adjustable screw over the valve to prevent the float rod and ball from falling too low in the tank.

I began seeing another style of float valve in the 1970s, ones with a float cup around the valve body or a column that extends up from the water supply line. The cup links to the valve itself, shutting off the water when it reaches an adjustable set point. The valve opens as the float cup drops. Adjustments take place by lengthening the column and/or raising and lowering the cup. Without a rod or float ball, these valves are more compact than the older style. There is less clutter in the tank to hang up flush valve flappers.

Another fill valve from that time is installed completely submerged, with only the refill tube extending from the water. It connects above the overflow pipe and it controls the water level via the pressure of the water in the tank. The water level is adjusted by turning a small screw. By far the most compact fill valve, it stands a few inches above the tank floor and requires no float ball or float cup.

All three styles are available today. Fluidmaster®, one maker of the second valve style, seems to be the fill valve of choice by many toilet makers. I find the 400A fill valve in many major brand toilets tanks as I pull new toilets right from the box. It’s adjustable, so it fits in different height tanks. It is also popular with plumbers and D-I-Yers. Expect to see many of them in the toilet tanks you inspect.

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Photo: Still widely used, the float-type fill valve shown in the photo (above) was once the primary style of fill valve found in most flush-tank type toilets.

Photo by Kenny Hart.

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A popular replacement fill valve, the Fluidmaster 400A is also factory installed as an original component by several major toilet manufacturers.

Photo courtesy of Fluidmaster.

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Photo: Though sold in many hardware stores, this style of fill valve installs submerged and therefore does not conform to ASSE 1002.

Photo by Kenny Hart

Fill valves and backflow event

When a fill valve allows water to siphon from the tank, it is considered a backflow event and the fill valve that creates the pathway for it to occur is a cross-connection. Any pollutants in the tank water can be drawn from the tank, injected into the potable water, then consumed. A case can be made that because sewer gases can enter the tank, usually during the flush cycle, the tank water is contaminated by more than just tank crud and blue dye. However blue-tinted water drawn from a nearby spigot is usually the evidence that alerts the consumer that this type of backflow has occurred.

Water can be removed from the toilet by the fill valve because of the valve’s design, an installation issue or a malfunction. Some localities prohibit the use of fill valves that do not conform to American Society of Sanitary Engineering Standard #1002.

Section P2902.4.1 of the International Residential Code states: “Flush tanks shall be equipped with an anti-siphon fill valve conforming to ASSE 1002 or CSA B125 (Canadian Standards Association). The fill valve backflow preventer shall be located at least 1 inch (25mm) above the full opening of the overflow pipe.”

Similar requirements regarding fill valves and the valve placement can be found in the 2006 Uniform Plumbing Code under section 603.4.2. Under this section of the UPC, the ASSE standard is not specifically noted.

With both codes, the intention is to ensure the fill valve’s backflow protection remains above the water level. Manufacturers of quality fill valves determine under vacuum conditions the point where backflow will occur. This location is called the critical level, and the letters “C L” are actually visible on the valve body. Testing to ASSE Standard 1002 will verify it. By keeping the water level an inch below this marking, the installer diminishes the risk of a backflow event through the device.

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Photo: “C L” marking (indicates critical level) on a Fluidmaster fill valve. Photo by Kenny Hart.

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Photo: “C L” marking on a float valve. Photo by Kenny Hart.

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Photo: “C L” marking on a fill valve. Photo by Kenny Hart.

The best way to ensure the tank water remains one inch below the critical level is to adjust the fill valve properly, checking to be sure the opening of the overflow pipe is below that level. If the valve should fail to shut off at the desired set point, the overflow will prevent water from rising above the critical level of the device.

Over the years, I’ve noticed fill valves installed in tanks that clearly state on the device that they are anti-siphon, yet the valve itself is designed to be submerged. One manufacturer’s representative responded to my inquiry about this by stating that they install a check valve in their fill valve’s supply line to make it anti-siphon, but he agreed their valve would not qualify under ASSE 1002. Also, I should note that check valves fail when they get dirty and generally are not an acceptable method of backflow protection. 

Renowned for its durability, the Fluidmaster® 200 was frequently installed during the 70s, but in this case durability is not a plus. The valve’s cutoff point is under water and eventually sales of the valve stopped in the U.S. Because it was inexpensive and only needed a small, round seal replaced to fix it if it failed, these valves are still around today, so you’re likely to find them. As a home inspector, I note them as a cross-connection concern. I recommend writing up any fill valve with its cutoff point or backflow preventer under water as a cross-connection concern. As a plumber, I swap out the Fluidmaster® 200 with the model 400A. This is a personal preference; other valves will do the job.

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Photo: Fluidmaster 200 fill valve. Photo by Kenny Hart.

Even an approved valve can allow backflow from the tank if the water level is above the critical level of the fill valve. Bad float balls, trash or improperly adjusted valves can cause an approved valve to fail the backflow test. Some replaced fill valves are just too short for the tank or a replaced overflow pipe could be too tall. When you lift the tank lid, you can see if the fill valve is submerged. I recommend pointing out the cross-connection hazard and suggest a call to a qualified plumber is in order.

4) Refill tube
Water in the bowl serves as a liquid seal that keeps sewer gases from entering the house. To keep the bowl trap filled with water, water from the fill valve is sent through a ¼” tube to the overflow pipe during the refilling of the tank. The small tube is called the refill tube.

Often, I find refill tubes shoved inside the overflow pipe. When the refill tube is not securely mounted above the water level in the tank, another type of siphoning can occur. With this defect, water can be pulled from the tank and sent down the drain through the overflow pipe. Though not a safety issue, this will cause constant cycling of the fill valve and major water loss. Most fill valve makers provide a connector to hold the refill tube above the overflow pipe while directing the water into it. Failure to use this device can increase the chances of this type of siphoning and the likelihood that the refill tube will blow from the overflow pipe. Water spraying around under the lid often escapes the tank and ends up on the floor. Inspectors should be sure the refill tube is secured and above the water level.

Did you know?

You really can’t write an article about toilets without at least mentioning Thomas Crapper. When I began working as a plumber’s helper in the early 1970s, I was told that Thomas Crapper invented the toilet. Crapper … toilet … it sounded reasonable to me. Then a little thing called the Internet came along and it seems this was not exactly the case.

What we consider a modern flush toilet really evolved over time. Sir John Harrington is credited by several sources as an inventor of a water closet. He called his apparatus the ‘Ajax’ and in 1596, he built one for himself and one for his Godmother, Queen Elizabeth I. Major advancements in toilet technology didn’t take place for another couple hundred years, when Alexander Cummings and others began to make improvements in valve mechanisms used in waste removal devices. According to theplumber.com, during the 1800s, J.G. Jennings patented a washout closet and Thomas Twyford built the first one-piece, trapless toilet in an all-china design.

As for Thomas Crapper, it appears he was a plumber who held several plumbing-related patents. Three patents were for improvements of the water closet, but as for being credited as the inventor of the modern flush toilet, this would be unfair to the many innovators who advanced the device before him.

More from Kenny Hart on inspecting toilets in future issues. Watch for articles covering joining two-piece toilets; low-flow, high-efficiency and dual-flush toilets; toilet bowl and loose toilets (how they get loose, the damage that can occur and even some simple fixes).

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Tank dates can confirm, not establish, age of house

KHart-13.jpg Experienced home inspectors know that the information embossed or printed under the lid or inside the toilet tank can help you date the house. A manufacture date visible in one of these areas that puts the toilet’s age at or near the suspected age of the building can be like finding a cornerstone on the front of the house. However, because of the push to save water and the availability of inexpensive, low-flush toilets, this is not as true as in the past. Today, toilets get replaced with regularity.

Some communities offer rebates and other incentives to residents who replace their higher-volume toilets with high-efficiency ones. In Virginia Beach, a program pays $75 for each inefficient toilet replaced with one that uses 1.6 gallon per flush or less. I’m sure I alone replaced hundreds of toilets under this program. So, I suggest only relying on this house-dating method when it confirms what you already believe to be true. When it does not, you might want to date the house by other means. 

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Where is that water coming from?

Condensation: Often, condensation dripping from a toilet tank is mistaken for a leak. A toilet that is regularly used will be more prone to condensate or sweat than one that sits for hours between flushes. A tank that has defective flush components that keep a stream of fresh cold water flowing through it is more disposed to sweat than one with components that are working well. With regularity, when I am asked to trouble-shoot a toilet condensation issue, the flapper, the fill valve or another flush component is contributing to the problem. Toilets using warmer city water are less likely to sweat than toilets supplied with well water. Fresh-pumped ground water tends to be much colder and is more likely to chill the tank.  

KHart-14.jpg When I observe this concern during an inspection, I pass on the causes and suggest remedies. I inform my client that if component repairs don’t seem to eliminate the problem, toilets with foam-lined tanks are available and tank liner kits can be purchased that will put a foam sheet between the humid air and the cold water. Mixing valves specifically developed to temper the water entering the tank can be installed as well.  Photo: Watts tempering valve. Photo courtesy of Watts.

Trip Lever: As a plumber, occasionally, I find water leaking at the trip lever. The cause is unrelated to the lever. It is caused by the water level rising too high in a tank because the overflow pipe is too long. Whether novice or pro, most people installing toilet parts realize if the overflow pipe is extremely tall, the lid won’t fit properly on the tank. However, if the overflow pipe extends above the hole in the china for mounting the trip lever, the potential for serious water damage exists. The overflow pipe should stop short of the trip lever opening and at least an inch below the backflow device or critical level of the fill valve. More about this in future articles.

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