Tips for Hidden Defects

June 1, 2022

Concealed defects in homes are often found in crawl spaces, basements, attics, and behind the siding. By concealed, let’s say they are hard to find. Moisture is the main culprit. Here are some tips for finding those problem areas.

Crawl Spaces

If you have a wet crawl space, you likely have damage under wet insulation. You might pull some back, or some may have fallen. Look for efflorescence (salts) on metal ducts or foiled insulation. Also, look for plumbing leaks. Use your nose. Watch out for puddles as you scoot on your butt—my mode of ingress (saves the knees, reduces head injury). Look for mold on joists. Only go as far as you feel safe. Document your findings, and be clear in your report that other damage may be hidden.

All of these problems can be fixed by treating the crawl space as a mini-basement: Insulate the walls with foam board; close all vents; open an HVAC register; remove all insulation between the joists; clean the joists, if necessary; and, add a new antimicrobial vapor barrier.

Also, make sure the downspouts are extended away from the foundation, there are no overflowing gutters, and the ground is sloped away from the crawl space.

Basements

The usual suspects in basements are downspouts draining to the foundation and overflowing gutters. It is unbelievable the extent some people go to in order to amend these problems: waterproofing the whole foundation, adding French drains, building roofs over window wells or stairwells.

Leaking gutters often leave channels along the side of the foundation or obvious debris adhering to the outside of the gutter. Also, folks can have their gutters cleaned, but they may still be blocked at the downspout. Flushing gutters with water is the only way to be sure they’re clear, aside from walking around the house in a rainstorm.

Basements can also hide asbestos insulation on ducts in older houses. Asbestos floor tiles are common in basements. These are non-friable (meaning they’re solid and hard to fragment into particles) and, therefore, not a hazard. They are often 9 inches square or less. I have 4-inch asbestos tile in my hallway.

Basements often have mold somewhere due to poor ventilation. Registers and returns can usually be easily added to forced air systems in basements. A humidistatic switch on basement bathroom fans can be a big help, and they work better and cheaper than dehumidifiers.

I find actual concealment by the sellers most often in basements. It may be that oddly arranged shelves or a rack of clothes are hiding mold. Also, unvented closets in basements often have moldy walls.

Attic

If spray foam is used in attics, it can vent formaldehyde and hide all structural damage. You have to disclaim the whole shebang. Most leaks are due to flashing problems on the sides or around the chimney. If there’s a catwalk, scoot as far as it goes to check that far end. Otherwise, say, “No leaks visible from hatch.”

Look for any nesting materials or scat to indicate other creatures’ presence. It only takes a half-inch gap in flashing to let someone in. I find many such gaps on newer buildings where the flashing makes box corners with an open bottom—often on garages. Of course, if you see bird poop anywhere, trace that up to find the hole.

Siding

Siding is the trickiest. Experts say no cladding is ever watertight. EIFS is the main culprit. You can see dents and missing sealant and busted corners, but the slightest breach can drain down the whole inside of a panel. I always say it can hide damage anywhere behind it.

A lot of the new cement fiber siding is installed incorrectly. Factory butt ends are supposed to be joined in the middle with flashing behind them—no butt gaps! One-eighth of an inch should be left on the corners to allow for expansion. The siding cannot be overlapped at the corners.

Vinyl siding is weakest around openings. It’s almost impossible to tell from the outside whether flashing and trim are done properly. Always check around windows inside for any evidence of leaking.

A final note on settling. People freak out if they see cracks in their walls or uneven floors. They must sign waivers when they buy new houses that they will get nail pops. Triangular trusses have the bottom insulated, so the chords expand at different rates and cause uplift—hence nail pops. New houses are using massive metal straps around multiple 2-by-4s to reduce settling, which occurs mainly around wall openings and staircases. I try to make a joke about us all settling over time. I also say the older the crack the better, meaning settling might be over. If they are worried about a crack, I say fill it and then monitor it. Cracks in foundations usually aren’t a concern as long as the walls are not buckling. Masonry cracks should be filled with polyurethane caulk.

Opinions or statements of authors are solely their own and do not necessarily represent the opinions or positions of ASHI, its agents, or editors. Always check with your local governmental agency and independently verify for accuracy, completeness, and reliability.


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